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How to repair front door check strap (with pics).

Discussion in 'Omega How to and FAQ's' started by sounds2k, Mar 19, 2006.

  1. sounds2k

    sounds2k New Member

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    Location:
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    some people have noticed that when closing and opening the front door on an omega (especially the driver's door as it gets more use) that there is a kind of cracking noise.

    A "fix" for this is documented on the omega owners' group on yahoo - but I tried this and it did NOT fix the problem. Worth doing though, as it will stop the internal bracket tearing which isn't good!

    What did fix the problem though, is also replacing the plastic bushes that fit between the check strap and the big bolt that fixes it to the bracket on the 'A' pillar, as shown below:

    [​IMG]

    Parts required

    4 x 9195961 (repair plate)
    4 x 13104167 (torx headed screws)
    2 x 90462823 (plastic bushes)

    total cost for these from Vx (retail) is £5.90

    Procedure

    First off, the repair plates I bought (helpfully) had a nice sticky label on each one with the part number. Ideally use proper label remover to get them off as you need to paint the brackets to prevent rust. I found that the Maplin label remover (part no. N63AN, £2.99 per can) does a very good job.

    You also need to cut down at least two of the brackets - cut off the top 8mm or so and round off the corners, turn 180 degrees and repeat. The info I've read differs - one source says do both brackets for each door, the Vx field rememedy info says to do just the outer one. I'd already done both anyway ... once this is done, paint the brackets to prevent rust.

    So for each door you will have two brackets, two screws and one plastic bush. The brackets and screws should be similar to this:

    [​IMG]

    before installation, the door check strap fitting to the door looks like this:

    [​IMG]

    Start by removing the door card (see Haynes manual page 11.8 if needed), then the front speaker. Note that removal of the plastic sheet is NOT needed for this job - so no problems if you've got side airbags fitted.

    The hardest part I found was removing the door locking knob - the Haynes manual makes it look so easy to remove the clip - but it's best done with a sharp knife initially to make a suitable gap as it's a tight fit otherwise. If it's been removed before then it shouldn't be a problem.

    to remove the check strap itself, use an 8mm socket - alternating between the top and bottom bolts. When they are out, remove the pin in the 'A' pillar bracket. This will require two 10mm spanners initially - after a few turns the nut on the bottom can be undone by hand - then remove the pin.

    At this point you may want to use latex gloves (unless you like greasy hands) - reach inside the door through the speaker hole and remove the check strap. The mechanism should be covered in grease, you may want to re-grease the mechanism at this point for good measure.

    Put one of the plates over the end of the mechanism and see if the screw holes in the plate line up with those on the check strap. If not you'll need to bend the check strap brackets slightly to match (both mine were slightly out).

    The second reinforcement plate needs to sit between the door and the fixing bolts - I found the best way to do this is to get the check strap into its' approximate position, then pull it back, fit the plate and push it through again.

    Fit the two new bolts through the inner and outer reinforcement plates and into the check strap - note that they have a T30 torx head and not standard 8mm hexagonal. On the driver's side, I had trouble getting the bolts in position - it turned out that there was a slight lip which the reinforcement plate needed to be sat on top of, otherwise it was about 1mm out. When complete it should look like this:

    [​IMG]

    (I suppose a bit of paint over the screw heads wouldn't be a bad idea either )

    Next comes the bushes. They fit on the end of the check straps, between the bolt and the strap, as below:

    [​IMG]

    Push out the old, replace with the new. Ideally grease the pin before replacing - it may now not go right the way through without "assistance" due to the new bush, but there should be enough to fit the nut onto. Tighten up using the two 10mm spanners as per removal, which will pull the pin down through the bush.

    Opening and closing the door should now be free of the cracking sound! :bananasmi
     
  2. Riso

    Riso New Member

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    Another "how to"
    well done
    Colin
     
  3. andy8

    andy8 V6 POWER

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    Nice one dan will get the part in the morning and give it a go:bananasmi
     
  4. sounds2k

    sounds2k New Member

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    prevention is better than cure!! I noticed that the driver's side was slightly deformed on mine, I guess the door got caught in the wind or something like that - but not too bad. After the repair, I reckon that the bracket on the 'A' pillar is more likely to go first now!

    And those are the right part numbers, my local parts department weren't sure they were valid - but the right bits arrived !!

    You can possibly omit ordering the bolts as the extra length isn't threaded, but will help in locating the bolt in the check strap.
     
  5. markjay

    markjay Dakota

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    Location:
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    Thanks for a GREAT How2!

    Been to Vx today to order the bits, and as expected the bloke at the Spares Part counter said ‘9195961 repair plate - no such part!’:down: . When I explained to him what the plate was for, he insisted that any damage to the check strap bracket should be repaired by welding in the body shop :jason2:.

    I asked if he could simply place an order with Vx for the part anyway, and we will see what arrives… But he blatantly refused to place and order for any part he could not locate on EPC :grrr .

    I then Pointed-out to him that he was checking for the Part Number on EPC, but since this part is a modification it will not be included in the EPC exploded view of the original vehicle, but will show on TIS2000 as a Technical Bulletin. My name-dropping of EPC and TIS2000 almost worked and his jaw dropped for a minute, but he still wouldn’t budge. I then suggested further that he should look-up the Part Number on TIS2000 himself, but to no avail.

    Just before giving-up, I told him that I was going to go now and come back with a print-out of the bulleting for TIS2000 (well, I was half-bluffing as I didn’t actually see such bulletin, I just assumed there would be one…). As which point he was pondering it for a couple of minutes :rolleyes: , then disappeared into the back of the shop only to emerge later mumbling something about this item coming-up under a different Part Number (NOT – the invoice he gave me had exactly the same P/N as I copied from the How2 :ROFLMAO: ).

    So thanks for all the info, hopefully I’ll now be able mend the crack-of-doom the easy way and without any welding… :bananasmi

    Incidentally, the bloke at the Spares counter only ordered one unit of 90462823 (plastic bushes), he said the Part Number was for a ‘pack of 5’. Typical Vx, this, who would ever need door-mount washers for a 4-door car in packs of 5????

    And the cost – I was charged that for each side, so the total cost was around £10. Don’t know if I have been overcharged or not, but if I can get the problem sorted for a Tenner then I’ll be a happy man… Will report progress.
     
  6. sounds2k

    sounds2k New Member

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    I'll give you a breakdown of the cost of each part later today, did you take any bananas with you? Mine didn't need any, but it sounds like your local parts guy might need some encouragement :ROFLMAO:

    Hopefully the how2 will help, I thought it was worth doing due to the lip on the inner door skin and the fact that the bushes seem to be what actually cure the "crack of doom" ... if it helps others then it's time well spent.
     
  7. TronicV6

    TronicV6 New Member

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    I checked mine a few days ago maybe a week WHAT'S A DOOR STRAP :ROFLMAO: mines been totally RIPPED OUT of the door, there's nothing there lol, not worth the trouble of fixing it properly going to do a bodge later this year when I have some time off (y)
     
  8. markjay

    markjay Dakota

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    Had I not read your post I am sure that the local Vx would have managed to convince me to let them strip the door, weld-repair the bracket, then repaint it and re-fit the trim, for the tune of £££ and ending-up with a door that looks like it has been.. err... well, welded and painted by Vx. :ROFLMAO:
     
  9. sounds2k

    sounds2k New Member

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    yep, Vx loooooooove parting owners and their cash!!

    The trouble is (as in TronicV6's case), the reinforcement plate needs something to reinforce - if the bracket has been destroyed already then you are looking at a welding / door replacement job anyway.

    Part numbers and costs are as follows:

    4 x 9195961 (reinforcement plate) @ £1.04 each
    4 x 13104167 (longer torx head bolts) @ £0.12 each
    2 x 90462823 (plastic bush) @ £0.19 each
    total cost: £5.02 + VAT = £5.90.

    Remember that this is RETAIL pricing as I don't have a trade card or access to one, as such it is the MAXIMUM you should be charged!

    The parts were ordered between 27th Feb and 14th March (didn't get them all at once), so the pricing should still be current.
     
  10. markjay

    markjay Dakota

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    [​IMG]

    :cry: Without words.

    Vauxhall, are you monitoring this???

    On the plus side, the bits arrived today and they are all the right bits.
     

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