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How to repair front door check strap (with pics).

Discussion in 'Omega How to and FAQ's' started by sounds2k, Mar 19, 2006.

  1. Big guy

    Big guy New Member

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    Location:
    Rhondda, S. Wales
    I Have the same problem on my omega doors.....just returned from my local Vx in South Wales and they cant even find the part numbers on their system that I gave them from this thread??? where do i go from here....another Vx outlet maybe??? any suggestions would be greatly appreciated...

    Many thnks guys.
     
  2. Big guy

    Big guy New Member

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    Location:
    Rhondda, S. Wales
    Please ignore the last post....tried another Vx dealer and hey presto.....parts now on order..

    Cheers guys.
     
  3. Big guy

    Big guy New Member

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    Location:
    Rhondda, S. Wales
    Just to let you guys know, I used the VX dealer in Merthyr tydfil, South Wales. He ordered the parts without question.

    The only thing that has changed is the part number for the torx screws.....and as soon as i find my receipt, I will post up the new part number for them, but you should still be able to use the old part numbers, lol
     
  4. jonhowell

    jonhowell Member

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    Location:
    crewe uk
    My Vectra SRI150 has the same crack on the front door. On inspection, top torx not holding anything and bottom fixing loose. Looks like a spot weld has broken and the two panels are moving on the door. I went to my local VX dealer, Grasmere Crewe, who were actually very helpful. I showed them the HOW2 above and they found the parts on their system. There was an apology that they were a little more expensive due to non stock items and minimum order, total £8.98 for:
    VAU 090462823 *bushing x5, £0.27 (£1.35)
    VAU 013155557 *screw torx x6 £0.17 (£1.02)
    VAU 009195961 *reinforcement x4 £1.36 (£5.44)

    These are retail prices not trade.

    The Haynes manual explains how to take off the front door trim, and I am not expecting any difficulty, especially as I don't have side air bags. Whilst waiting for the kit, I have disengaged the two torx screws so the strap does no more damage but will stop the door from swinging past a safe opening limit. Hold on to the handle!
    Jon H.
     
  5. pSynrg

    pSynrg New Member

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    Location:
    London
    Seems like a common one, I have this very problem with my MV6. Thanks for the fix it guides! Only thing putting me off is having to cut one of the plates - but will try it through the wiring hole as suggested. And do they really need painting, and will any paint do?
     
  6. hughcross294

    hughcross294 Member

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    Location:
    Coventry, UK
    I have recently had a similar problem where the check link on the drivers door had been ripped out leaving some sharp edges and bent metal inside, I spoke to my local parts department and they said they knew of these problems and sold me what they said would fix it. I ended up with plates that I would have had to weld in as well as the reinforcement plates, some bolts that were too big and the pillar fixings, another welding point which is not required! I solved the problem by straightening out the metal, this can be achieved more effectively if the window guide is removed, I then inserted a plate on the check strap, disconnected the wiring harness and pushed out the connector from the door in order to fit the outer plate through the wiring hole. Using the original bolts I then located and partially tightened the plates and the link mechanism, located and connected the pillar pin fully before tightening up, and squashing flat the original metal, the plates & mechanism.

    Points to note: The wiring connector has three lugs on it, 1 of them is fairly inacessable so brut force may be needed, by releasing the first harness clip inside the door near the speaker, the harness can be pulled through enough to allow the plate to be slid in.

    WARNING! DO NOT turn on the ignition with the wiring disconnected - there is a sensor for the SRS in the door, if the system is powered with any part disconnected it will raise a fault and the airbag light will illuminate until reset. Vauxhall will charge for this, I'm hoping that an OBD unit to connect to my laptop will enable me to do this myself at a fraction of the cost.

    I hope that this information helps.
     
  7. den111s

    den111s New Member

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    Location:
    Lanzarote Spain
    Same metal fracture on meriva rear doors - does the plate kit fit this model please

    2003 Meriva purchased last year.

    I had one rear door panel mounting torn out last week, accompaied by a clonk - clonk everytime the car corners, due to the loose check strap. Checking the door on the opposite side it looks at though someone has already put makeshift plates on the outer skin, but as I open and close the door I can see the remains of the panel still flexing, so I imagine it will be on the way to failure soon.

    I have measured the distance between the mounting screw centres as 45mm.

    Berore I try to obtain any, can anyone tell me please if this is the same measurement as the plates on the featured Repair Kit ?

    I am disappointed that GM didn't forsee this problem in a stressed area.:cry:

    Thanks for any help guys.:rolleyes:
     
  8. alcutler

    alcutler Member

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    Location:
    Ilkeston, Derbyshire
    Hi Guys - The check link on my 98 Omega estate has gone as described and as a result of the info on these posts I simply made two plates and bolted them on as described - only I drilled out the check strap plate threaded holes and used 11mm bolts with loc nuts on the inside of the door. Used thicker metal on the plates and pretty sure no welding required.
    Thanks for the help
     
  9. Mr Philby from Cork

    Mr Philby from Cork New Member

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    Location:
    CORK
    Thought I'd add my four penn'th as I've just had to repair the check strap on my 95 V6 and checked this forum first to see what I was up against. Mine appeared to have suffered metal fatigue due to one of the securing bolts being loose and the whole thing 'rocking' everytime the door was opened/closed. * worth checking occasionaly to ensure they're tight I reckon*
    The whole strap mechanism flange etc was (Badly) hanging off the sheared metal of the door and ripped a big hole (See pic below)

    DSC00001s.jpg
    USING MIRROR TO INSPECT THE DAMAGE​

    First I thought it was beyond easy repair with the 'repair' kit from vauxhall after consulting the previous posts in this thread, but thought I'd have a go anyway since I'd already bought the kit.

    But having managed what looks to be a reasonable repair I thought I'd add some suggestions/observations to make things a bit easier.


    Some essential items (apart from the obvious)
    1. A small torch (maglite or something)
    2. 1 metre gardening wire (or string)
    3. 3 small hand mirror (to see around the corner)
    4. Piece of wood/batten
    • It seems you only need to cut down/round off the outside plate, and only until it's (just) small enough to fit through the gap of the outer door. I screwed the plate onto a wooden batten using self tappers through the existing hole in the plate, having done that then used a hacksaw blade attached to a jigsaw to cut the ends off. Take the plate off the battten, spin it around screw it back on and do the other end. (So much easier and less painfull than trying to hold the thing and cutting your fngers off)
    • I found I didn't need to remove the whole door card and only needed to take the screws out along the bottom edge and up the sides, take out the speaker grille and it is then just possible to get to the 3 cross head screws retaining the speaker. Once the speaker is out you can just get your hand through the hole and up inside the door and get hold of the back of the mechanism.
    • Before I put the mechanism back through the hole I attached the inside plate to the flange, aligning the holes, with gaffer tape, although it seems there's no reason why you couldn't glue it on (evo stick or something) see picture below. I could see that it would probably be an awful fiddle trying to align the holes once you got the all the parts more or less in place,and lets face it, it is an awful fiddle anyway, and at one stage I nearly gave up


    GAFFER ATTACHING FLANGE & PLATE
    • By putting one end of the wire (or string) through the hole (through which the strap travels) and being careful to follow the route by which you would offer-up the mechanism when putting it back, take the wire out through the speaker hole and tie the end through the hole in the door strap. Then when putting the mechanism back up to its position (inside the door) you can guide & support the strap back through to it's desired position. And I think its worth noting that it seems to work better offering-up the mechanism to its position from slightly above, rather than straight on or from below (there are too many obstacles in the way for a stress free 'docking') It also only seemed to be able to get the mechanism in position with the strap in the haf way position (as would be with the door half open)​
    DSC00007s.jpg
    STRING ATTACHED TO END OF STRAP & PULLING INTO POSITION.

    Lastly i'ts probably worth mentioning that the speaker grille should probably be re-attached whilst the door panel is still floating and you can get your hand up the back and deal with the spring clips.

    All in all it:seems to work fine and glad I persevered

    Good luck with yours​


     

    Attached Files:

  10. vecboy

    vecboy Well-Known Member

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    Drives:
    a car
    i did my omega with some washers on both side of check strap to pull door skin back, changed washers for stronger ones car still working with it like that,cost 1.00
     

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