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How2: V6 cambelt change using locking kit; step by step with pictures

Discussion in 'All Model Vauxhall / Opel / GM / Holden How2' started by appeljoos, Apr 27, 2005.

  1. appeljoos

    appeljoos New Member

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    See a cambelt change for the easy job it is - provided you have use of a locking kit ...

    <this thread a work in progress as I hone and perfect it ... pictures first ...>
    <lol "too many images" so this'll be part1 quickly followed by part2>

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The business end - the crank (aux belt pulley removed) ...
    [​IMG]

    Timing mark on the crank approaching line-up with the cut-out notch in the cast edge below ...
    [​IMG]
     
  2. appeljoos

    appeljoos New Member

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    <part2>

    Putting the crank locking tool in position before winding the crank the last little bit to TDC ... you won't be able to see those timing marks anymore - but the tool doesn't let the crank rotate past TDC ...
    [​IMG]

    The timing marks on the sprockets about to line up with their cutouts ... (here on the front bank, #3 and #4 )
    [​IMG]

    Crank locked, timing marks line up so Rd and Green sprocket locking tools slip in ... belt off!
    [​IMG]
     
  3. cornishtaz

    cornishtaz Well-Known Member

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    Any pics of the timing marks that need to be lined up prior to fitting the locking kit
     
  4. appeljoos

    appeljoos New Member

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    Briefly - Pic2 and Pic4 are the ones you want. The cam sprockets for cam one (rearmost) and cam two are identical so carry a timing mark for both (cheap manufacture - one bit used twice rather than two bits). The same thing for cams three and four (four being at the front of the engine bay). In Pic3 you can see the bottom of a number '3' under the first timing mark.

    Pic2 - the notch on the crank (beneath the nut) should be brought clockwise to the position you see it in the picture - ie a few degrees before it lines up with the cutout in the edge cast below the pulley (you can see it at the lowest part of that picture).

    Check that the timing marks on the cam sprockets are also approaching their cutout marks Pic4; if not, you'll have to wind the crank all the way round again until they do. Put the crank locking tool on Pic3 and gently wind the crank on until the tool butts up against the water pump.

    Getting to and fitting the belt is the easy bit. The slightly more nadgery and time consuming bit is making sure the tension is right at all parts of the belt so that the timing marks stay correctly in relation to each other - eg making sure the top most tensioner roller isn't pulling too tightly on the sprockets for #1 and #2 so that they get 'pulled' past their marks and so on ...


    EDIT - THE SPECIFIC PIC REFERENCES HAVE CHANGED - BUT IT SHOULD BE OBVIOUS NOW THAT I'VE ADDED MARKS ON THE PICS?
     
  5. appeljoos

    appeljoos New Member

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  6. archie

    archie Active Member

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    Tensioning the belt is a right pain. If you haven't got the tensioners in a reasonable position to begin with, you can't adjust them enough to get the timing marks to line up after you've turned the engine over a couple of times. The instructions are no help really - not yours appeljoos, I mean one of the several that are available - they are very specific about the order and direction you have to turn the adjuster pulleys, but it's all bollocks really.

    You just have to turn the two adjuster pulleys every which way once the belt is on, and look at how turning them affects the position of the cam pulleys, then fiddle until everything is lined up. As long as the belt is on and your timing isn't too far out while you're practicing, you're probably not going to cause any damage. Assuming the spark plugs are out while you rotate the engine, it should be obvious if valves are hitting pistons before any damage is done (that's just a guess, but it seems reasonable to me).

    I had the tools when I did mine (first time I'd done it really, I had a mechanic mate help me the last time and it was all done by hand; I had to take it to VX to get it tensioned up properly later as it was running awful) and it still took me three or four attempts. The first was awful, I was trying to adjust the tensioner pulleys with an adjustable spanner and it was impossible to get a socket wrench in to tighten the screw. The second time I lined them up but the timing went off when I set the tensioner pulley - I remember looking at the instructions in disbelief - "loosen the tensioner?!?" Third time I finally got a spanner the right size (believe me, 32mm deep ring spanners are not easy to find), didn't quite get timing right, fourth time was a success, I was well chuffed :D

    Well worth doing if you've got an afternoon spare and you like having £200. I might even do it again just for fun, like. Maybe. :mmmm

    Looks like you've got the same tools as me appeljoos. Aren't those cam locking tools crap? They should lock the cams tight but they can still move several degrees out of position. You know they are roughly in the right position when the locking tools are loose. :rolleyes: I found myself watching the locking tools when I was adjusting timing, to see when they tightened or loosened off..
     
  7. Mark T

    Mark T Gas Powered

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  8. archie

    archie Active Member

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    I would much prefer that, it's what I was expecting to be honest. I guess the message is stay away from the Laser kit then, since they all seem to cost about the same..

    Having said that I don't think the problems I had were anything to do with that, just to do with it being my first solo cambelt change.
     
  9. Mark T

    Mark T Gas Powered

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    My Kit was £150, but they come up 2nd hand from time to time.
     
  10. a2reed

    a2reed New Member

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    Archie
    Did you use the locking kit or do it manually?
     

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